Wash the cÅpes and soak them in lukewarm water. Boil the wine with the onion, leek, carrot, bouquet garni, celery stick, sugar, salt and pepper. Reduce to obtain 4 cups of liquid, sieve. Brown the quail in goose fat in a high-sided frying pan, discard the fat, sprinkle with Armagnac, flambÄ. Sprinkle with flour, moisten with the wine, add the drained and chopped cÅpes and cook for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, fry the rind, ham, shallots and garlic in a frying pan. Pour into the high-sided frying pan, cook for a further 15 minutes. Place the quail onto the serving dish, keep warm. Dissolve the cocoa in a little Armagnac, pour into the sauce, mix. Remove the sauce from the heat, add the butter little by little while beating with a whisk. Arrange the quail onto bread slices fried in butter, coat with the sauce. Serve with apples fried quickly in a frying pan.